Lorraine’s Bistro is a fantastic French home run for the Robin Hood Hotel in Waverley

Sydney will never have enough French restaurants. The cuisine can arguably surpass Italian and Japanese in terms of density, with some of the city’s most beloved restaurants emphasizing regional specialties from France. Sydney already has a new wave of more refined, upscale French restaurants with Porcine and Bistro 916, but our love for food may be best expressed when it comes to these more laid back and hidden bistros that are relatively obscured when it comes to hype.

You know. The ones you would never meet on a casual night out, but be proud to find them regardless. It is Lorraine’s Bistro in its own right. This is a stunning new space open above the iconic Robin Hood Hotel in Waverley, aimed at changing the perception of restaurant-pubs in the area. And given it’s so close to Bondi, you might as well consider it’s a very welcome arrival for French cuisine in the seaside suburbs, whereas traditionally you’d think more of Paddington, Potts Point and the CBD when you go. look for snails and fried steak.

Now, some may have a stigma still attached to pub restaurants. They just can’t compete with top-notch stand-alone restaurants. Law? Wrong. Very bad.

Lorraine’s is – and I’m not going to take it down in the name of a thinly veiled sense of credibility here – a fantastic restaurant, which I would happily return to any day of the week. Not only is the food great, nothing (okay, maybe a thing) all night long leaving me too disappointed, but the space is also a joy to be.

On the one hand, you have a large glass skylight that catches the sky and makes you feel like you’re dining under the stars. Of course, the perception of the dining room at dusk is just that, a perception. You will no longer see stars in Sydney. They do not exist. But what you’ll see, if you’ve made the wise choice of opting for an early dinner at Lorraine’s Bistro, is the city’s signature multi-colored sunset that surrounds you as you eat. Lorraine’s has no problem with the ambiance.

Now that I know how to trust the chef, I think ordering a set menu would be the best way to at Lorraine’s Bistro

Although if you want to go a la carte, here is what to order.

The feast here starts best with creamy chorizo ​​croquettes, which will set you back $ 16 for 4. While they’re quite large, it’s a bit of a punchy price for an entree, but well worth it if you. can nevertheless justify the expense. Bread with smoked Pepe Saya butter is, of course, a no-brainer, especially if you save it to mop up some of that deliciously baked Camembert which is rich, gooey, indulgent and absolutely what you would want from this quintessentially French dish.

Cantabrian anchovies with lemon are presented simply without additional garnish, although they may have been drizzled with a little too much oil. Anchovies are currently experiencing a rapid resurgence in the Sydney dining scene, but more often than not they are served simply layered on good quality lightly toasted bread. Instead, here are four fairly large anchovies that swim carefully in a little too much olive oil.

While it’s a slight bump for a good starter, Jack’s Creek Smoked Beef Tartare is a step back in the right direction. Light, slightly creamy and rich. I have high expectations when I see Jack’s Creek on a menu – they’ve won the best steak in the world back-to-back for a few years now, and for good reason – and they’ve been made welcome by this excellent rendition of a French classic. .

A spinach and blue cheese gratin for $ 12 on the side? Past. The blue cheese was heavier and way too potent. A better accompaniment, instead, is the classic French fries or bitter leaf salad with walnuts. These are great sides for any main course you choose, which will likely be Cararecce pasta and Jacks Creek Black Angus Prime Rib. Although smart money goes with wood-fired salted cabbage. I know it doesn’t look that sexy, but the cabbage with a gorgeous cashew sour cream, pickled raisins and macadamia was the biggest pleasant surprise of the night. Those with more limited dietary needs really don’t have a lot of choice on the menu, so that more than makes up for it.

Now, the biggest disappointment of the evening: the WA harissa grilled octopus. Big, fat, juicy and perfectly textured tentacles served generously in the simplest way possible. But just a little too much sauce. So much so, in fact, that it completely drowned out the taste of the sea creature, although it is from a good source and obviously begging to be as natural as possible. WA produces some of the best octopuses in the world, so the fact that they couldn’t get it right is perhaps a testament to a little overzealousness and a desire to do something different. When it comes to seafood, you don’t want to rock the boat too much.

Lorraine’s Bistro is a very interesting addition to the region. While more important, this is something you would want to visit even if you don’t live in the area. I cannot say that I have explored Waverley a lot. In fact, I don’t think I’ve ever been there despite the fact that I grew up in Sydney. It will change. Lorraine’s Bistro is a place I would definitely revisit. Although the prices are slightly higher than what you would like from a pub restaurant. As such, it’s not a place you would eat every night (French cuisine shouldn’t be anyway – too much butter) but it’s a great choice when looking for something to eat. a little different in Waverley (or near Bondi).

203 Bronte Rd, Waverley NSW 2024 | (02) 9389 3647 | lorraines.com.au/

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